Seoul

Whatever you've heard about Seoul, it is true :)

A city that never sleeps, a shopping paradise, an electronic haven, a city with an enormous cultural heritage and history surrounded by National Parks and colourful forests. All this packed up in a 10 million metropolis with a metro that brings you everywhere for only 1€50. It's a city that one should visit at least once in a lifetime :)

In between the young, modern and vibrant life you can also feel the 'empire of the old'.
South Korea has one of the fastest aging population worldwide and a very low birth rate which makes it a haven for elderly people. One could get the impression that the seniors gained the upper hand and took over the city. In the subway for example you can't sit on a regular seat without being eyeballed by at least ten pairs of angry senior eyes. At first sight, you could get the impression that most of the pensioners are a little unstable on their feet, but when you see them jump like a gazelle on the spare seats, you quickly change your mind. Furthermore on their way through the city, most of them only know one way: straight ahead without mercy. It is a surprise that South Korea isn't among the world leaders in rugby football ;)

But all jokes aside, we had a great time in Seoul and spend some lovely days with Jaeongmi and her mother (our hosts for 10 days) visiting the city. We went to the biggest shopping district we've ever seen, the Dongdaemun Market (goods with a value of several billions of Euros). There were so many things of which you didn't even know that you would need and miss them.

Then we took a day off to visit the largest indoor amusement park of the world, 'Lotte World', with its roller coasters, thrill-attractions and 5D shooting arcades.

During our stay, the government organized in cooperation with Spain and Japan their annual firework-festival (a 90 minutes pyrotechnics show, divided in 3 sets and fired from two boats on the Han River) with millions of visitors (who installed their tents already during the early morning hours on the meadow to secure the best spot).

We walked along the ancient fortress wall of Seoul where it is still forbidden (at some marked spots) to take a picture of the city (for fear of spies from North Korea).

In Seoul fashion trends are set, history breathes and you always find a quiet spot to enjoy the nature.

The Pagoda in Gyeongbokgung, the ancient royal palace of the Emperor.

The 250km long DMZ (Korean Demilitarized Zone) divides North from South Korea since 1953.

One of the most well-preserved ecological system could develop in this area because no human being was allowed to enter the deadly zone since more than 60 years now.

 

Jaeongmi and her mother showed us a great hospitality.

The DMZ has a special meaning for the Koreans. Many families suffered great losses because of this bloody conflict that hasn't found an end yet.

At the Memorial of the Korean War in Seoul.

 

The colourful entrance gate to one of the biggest fireworks festival in the world.

One of the three stages with view on the Skyline of Seoul.

Enjoying a live concert on the second stage from a distance. At least the music wasn't too loud :)

 

Even though we didn't camp on the site, we got a very good viewing spot.

Our beloved butcher. Every time we came in the shop, he had a little present for us.

Could this be 'divided' Hollywood-Oscar?

Along the walls of ancient Seoul.

The Korean 'Chinese Wall' :)

We are looking forward to discover Vietnam on our next journey with a special guest.

Songnisan National Park

From Daegu we did a quick pit stop (1 night) in Cheongju where we had a lovely dinner with a Korean family, before continuing our way to the Songnisan National Park.
There we stayed at the first floor of a newly build house with Jeil and his family. But before reaching our home, we had to overcome some obstacles. As there was no shop near the house, we had to buy the groceries in Cheongju. To climb a bus (with an unpatient busdriver) and carry 2 x 20 kg heavy bagpacks and 6 bags of groceries is a big challenge. To get out quickly at the bus stop is even more complicated. But to climb a steep mountain with all this carriage made our mission almost impossible. With a lot of willpower and a well trained fitness we completed the task ;)

After reaching the top, we were recompensed with a heart warming family, a big house, two cute dogs and two nice mountain bikes. Throughout our stay, the family did eveything they could to make us feel at home. They even offered us a bowl full of grilled chestnuts that grew on the autumn-coloured trees around the house.

We walked their two dogs and did a 15km mountain trekking. We underestimated the hike because we didn't know that the trails in Korea are quite demanding. At some point we even had to do some mountaineering to continue our way. After hours of challenging 'ups and downs' we finally reached the shore of the river and walked slowly back home.

It felt good to get away from the crowded city. It's never as beautiful as being sourrounded by nature.

Our family diner in Cheongju. Unfortunately the son ('Larry') couldn't be there, but a friend of his acted as the translator.

Our house in the Songnisan National Park.

Walking the young and enthusiastic dogs.

Fortunately they affixed some ropes because otherwise we couldn't have overcome the sometimes very steep ascents.

Dangerous ;)

In South Korea there aren't many 'big moutains' but a lot of green hills.

 

'What goes around comes around'. After the steep ascents, came the tough descents.

The nature in Korea grows only according to the principles of 'Feng Shui' ('Pungsu-jiri' in Korea)  ;)

Two mushroom heads biking through Koreas rural region.

Busan and Daegu

After landing in Busan, we immediately realized that we aren't any more in Japan, because people in South Korea have a quite different mentality.

We noticed this for the first time in the subway from the airport to our accommodation. While sitting on our seats, we were constantly eyeballed by some senior citizens. At first we didn't know why, but then we found out, that we were erroneously sitting on spaces reserved for pregnant women or elderly people (half of the subway seats are reserved for them). So we stood up and offered them our seats. Instead of saying thank you, they turned up their noses at us.
Then throughout our stay here, we were rammed countless times by people in the subway/on the street and they didn't even bother to look up not to mention to apologize (probably we were spoiled by the wariness and subtlety of the Japanese).

Nevertheless, all the Koreans we met personally were very friendly, curious and open minded!

The second largest city of South Korea, 'Busan', lies on the shore of the Korean South Sea in between various hills which gives the city its unique urban landscape. It has the largest beach of South Korea and is a popular summer holiday destination for the Koreans.

In and around the city are a lot of sights to visit. We chose only a few because we had merely some days left. We went to the only UN cemetery worldwide and learned some more about the Korean War (1950-1953). We climbed on one of the hills in the heart of Busan and hiked through the forest along the rocky coast. We ate a traditional Korean dish and visited the largest fish market of South Korea ('Jagalchi market').

Once we left the city, a strong typhoon hit Busan and caused extensive damage to the city.


From Busan, we travelled to Daegu (fourth largest city) and visited the Gatbawi Medicine Buddha on the Palgongsan Mountain. It is said that this Buddha grants you a wish once in a lifetime, if you pray for it with your whole heart.

Here we discovered that the Koreans are a trekking nation, because even the most unathletic person wears the newest functional clothing.

After those two big and busy cities, we needed a little break and organized for ourselves a little time-out in the countryside :)

The fish is freshly prepared for you if you plan to eat it on the market in Busan.

The Giant Japanese Spider Crabs look like they were coming from a Science Fiction movie.

They also sold skinned eels that were still alive and moving in a plastic bag.

A 32 cm long ice cream.

At the UN cemetery in Busan. The Korean War has got an entry in the Guinness Book of World Records as the war that was supported by the highest number of allies (67 countries).

Even two people from Luxembourg lost their lives to protect the world peace.

The view of Busan: Beautiful in its ugliness.

Enjoying the sunset on the rocky seafront promenade.

A local speciality: Grilled silkworms.

Strange people in Daegu ;)

Before reaching the end of the 3 hours ascent to the Gatbawi Buddha, there was a nice 'little' temple to make a rest.

Korean temples are way more ornated than the Japanese counterparts...

...with a lot of very beautiful drawings.

The great 4m tall stone Buddha with his 15cm thick hat on top of the mountain.

The hills of South Korea.