Lake Titicaca

Considered as the highest navigable lake of the world, Titicaca is divided between Peru and Bolivia.

The small islands on this 3232 m² lake were already populated long before the Spaniards dominated South America.

We booked a 2 days trip to discover three of the six islands. First we visited the 'man made' islands 'Uros', which are completely made out of floating reeds ('Totora-Schilf'). Then we visited the island 'Amantani' with its two pre-Inca temples and stayed there for a night with the locals. The second morning we visited the island 'Taquile' which was used as a prison by the Spaniards. Nowadays this island is well known for its knitting 'made exclusively by men'.

After our trip on the lake, we booked a bus transfer to La Paz via Copacabana. On the border crossing we had a very bad surprise. Apparently the immigration bureau in Leticia/Santa Rosa fooled us and scribbled with a pen only 30 days (instead of the usual 90 days for Peru) on our Visa stamp without telling us. As we were staying for 36 days in Peru, we had to pay 1 dollar for each day exceeding the limit. Unfortunately we couldn't pay the fee at the immigration office but had to take a taxi to the next town to pay it via transfer at the national bank. We couldn't warn the bus driver or anyone in the bus because they had already crossed the border.

Arriving in town, there was an enormous queue because apparently it was pay day. We had to ask our way through the waiting line and then deal with an extremely slow clerk. After 20 long minutes in the bank (that seemed like hours) we could do the payment and head back to the border. We were sure that our bus with the luggage already left without us. At the border we had to skip again the long waiting line and earned some very hostile looks. With the payment recipe we hoped to get the exit stamp from Peru. Unfortunately this wasn't enough, they needed also 3 copies from each document (our passport, our bank recipe and our visa). So we headed again out to find a copy machine.

At this point we were sure that our luggage was lost and that we were stranded at the border. Luckily we found a copy shop next to the immigration office and could get the copies. Again, we skipped the queue and finally got our exit stamp. Then we crossed by foot the border, just to find our bus totally empty (at the border people always have to change the bus to continue to Bolivia). Only our luggage was waiting there with the bus driver/guide who yelled at us for being late without informing him. He told us that he wasn't responsible anymore for our transfer to La Paz. 

At this point, Jean-Marc exploded. After a few minutes of loud discussions, the bus driver agreed to bring us to Copacabana where our bus made a planned 1 hour break. So we headed to the Bolivian immigration office, jumped again the line and got finally the entry stamp for Bolivia. Then we took a cab to Copacabana, where we could eventually continue our journey to La Paz.

What a chaotic border crossing, only due to an incapable office clerk in Santa Rosa (Amazonas).

A traditional boat on the Island 'Uros'. Nowadays it has only a touristic purpose.

The 49 artificial islands of Uros were used to spot enemies during war time. If a threat occurred, the islands could be moved because of their floating characteristic. The biggest islands have a tall watch tower.

The islands are built completely out of the roots of the Totora-reeds (in form of cubes that are fixed with ropes) that grow in the lake. Then the stalks of the reeds are put on the ground (to avoid humidity) before building the houses on top of it. The ground needs constant maintenance: Every few months, a new layer of stalks is put on the ground.

The floating island-ground underneath the water.

The electricity is produced by solar panels. These days most of the Uru people live on the mainland where they have their cemeteries too.

The Uru people live mainly from fishing and selling their colourful handicrafts.

The biggest islands can host up to 10 families.

Our excursion brought us by boat to the second largest island of the lake called 'Amantani'.

On our way to the local accommodation. The village counts a total of approx. 3800 people.

People on the island are a little shorter than Caucasians.

The terraces are used for cultivating wheat, potatoes and vegetables.

On the two mountain peaks were built the Pachamama temple (mother earth) and the Pachatata temple (father earth, cf. picture). Every year the inhabitants collect their best crops, textiles etc. to burn them inside the temple. If the flames grow very high, it will be a good year with a successful harvest.

Preparing for the dance-night with the towns people.

Together with our host Luisa we danced in the town's hall.

The gate to heaven on the island 'Taquile' :)

Enjoying a heart-warming sunset with view on the Lake Titicaca.

In the queue, waiting to pay our 12 dollars fine in order to finally cross the border.

Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Like driving through an enormous 'open air museum', Cusco and the Sacred Valley is a blessing for the eyes. On every turn there is a new archaeological site that awaits to be discovered. But not only the landscapes take you on a journey through history, but also Cusco itself, with all its colonial buildings, makes you feel like living in another century. Additionally to this, the gastronomic variety of the city makes it a place worth staying some days. A lot of young entrepreneurs opened lovely restaurants with good food and stylish decoration.

After staying in the city for a few days, discovering a lot of restaurants, churches, the famous San Pedro market with its colourful local handcrafts and food, we decided to rent a motorcycle and drive through the Sacred Valley.

We visited a rescue centre for wild animals, tasted the local dish 'cuy' (guinea pig), visited some of the many Inca ruins as well as the spectacular salt basins ('Salinas') and enjoyed a relaxing sun side cruise.

Part of the Plaza de Armas in Cusco. It has a great resemblance with the one in Ayacucho, just a little bigger.

More than 4000 different sorts of potatoes exist in Peru.

Peru has also a big variety of corn.

Strolling through the market San Pedro with a new handwoven hat.

A thirsty dog on the Plaza de Armas.

Driving with our lovely Honda Tornado through the Sacred Valley.

Vicuñas are very agressive and can't be domesticated like Llamas or Alpacas. The fur of the vicuñas is very soft (and rare because it can only be shorn once every 3 years from wild animals) and therefore it is very popular with animal smugglers.

A curious turtle in the rescue centre.

Holding on to a friendly Llama.

In whole South America, domesticated parrots seem to be very annoying. They nag the whole time on each other.

Sitting in the big cage of the Condors in the animal rescue centre.

The Condor is the national symbol of the Andes and in many cultures this bird is honoured.

Since many centuries, the indigenous people of Peru use natural resources to dye their woollen threads.

The wool is cooked with the natural colour...

..then it is suspended in the fresh air to dry....

...and finally it is used to weave a scarf, gloves, a hat or a carpet.

Local dish 'cuy' (guinea pig) roasting on the barbecue.

The inside of the guinea pig is filled with a lot of fresh herbs which gives it its special taste.

The valley of the Salinas.

The terraces look like they have been puzzled together.

The Salinas near the town Maras are still in use today.

To collect the salt is a physical demanding work.

The purpose of the Inca ruins in Moray is still unclear until today. Its design, shape and orientation (concerning the wind and the sun) led to suggestions that it was used as an experiment station to study the agricultural crops in different climates (the top varies 15°C from the bottom of the circles).

A good sheperd always stays near his flock.

Choquequirao Trek Day 4

Fourth stage: Maizal - Yanama
Length:  12 km
Duration: 8 hours
Difference in elevation: approx. 1776 m (ascent: 1150m // descent: 626m)

From Maizal we climbed up the mountain on a muddy Inca trail.

As we rose higher, the views were getting better and better.

José-Luis, our 'arriero' was actually no real 'arriero'. As we booked the tour quite spontaneously, Daime couldn't find a real 'arriero', therefore he asked José-Luis (who is in his everyday life a young taxi driver) to help out.

It was the first time José-Luis did this tour. He did it very well and even though he enjoyed the trip, he entrusted us that he would rather continue with his taxi rides than doing those difficult trekking tours.

The way pulled itself with some flat but also some steep passages to get across the Victoria Pass.

 

On top of the hill, 'Abra San Juan', we reached our highest altitude, 4150 meters above sea level.

After a spartanly lunch break with an overwhelming view on the valley...

...we started our descent to the village Yanama at 3524m.

The passages were very narrow...

...especially for the mules.

But also for us, the path was quite frightening.

On our left, the gorge fell a few hundred meters down and there were no handrails on the way. This trail isn't advised for people with fear of heights.

After a rather nice promenade, we reached the beginning of the village, where we spent our last night in the freezing tent under the smelly horse covers.

Pedro (69, on the left) our guide was very tired after this difficult journey and he told us that this is going to be his last tour to Yanama. His brother Daime came especially from Cachora to Yanama to spend the last night with his brother and us.

Our 'arriero' José-Luis had to take the mules back to Cachora during a 3 days trek. On his way back he could luckily ride the mules, because they had to carry no luggage anymore.

But before riding the horse, it needs a pair of horseshoes.

We took a mini-van from Yanama to Santa Teresa (via Totora)...

... and drove up the Mariano Llamocca Pass (4643m).

In Santa Teresa, after this exhausting 4 days trip, we could finally relax in the Cocalmayo natural hot springs.